☀️ The Nicole Magnusson Newsletter

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📆 Daily Issue 44 | ⏱️ Read time: 3 min

From Shoreline Spectator to Surfing Warrior: How to Catch Life’s Waves

I’m sitting on the shore with my surfboard lying right beside me.

I watch the other surfers catch waves, miss waves, and get a workout. I watch life happen from the shore because I am too scared to participate.

I am too scared of missing a wave.

I am too scared of sharks.

And I am too scared that I’m not strong enough to paddle out there.

So I just sit on the beach and watch people braver than I.

But then something comes over me… a sensation I’m not familiar with: hope, determination, or desire… I’m not quite sure. But it propels me off my towel.

All of a sudden, I’m grabbing my surfboard and running down to the beach.

The sand is hot and it burns my feet, but I don’t care.

My wetsuit doesn’t quite fit right, but I don’t care.

I’m carrying my surfboard wrong and people are staring, but I don’t care.

When I finally hit the water, it's so much colder than I expected, but I charge on.

I’m running through the shallow ocean water, surfboard in tow. For once in my life, I’m not thinking.

Then, as the water hits my waist, I pull the surfboard underneath my belly and start paddling.

I’m one with the board.

I’m one with the ocean.

I’m one with myself.

I can hardly believe I’m out here with the other surfers, but I don’t let myself stop to think.

A huge wave comes towards me, and on instinct, I duck beneath.

Another huge wave, and I duck beneath it again.

I’m finally in a stretch of open water. I watch the sparkling ocean. I breathe in the fresh air. I’m ALIVE.

When the next wave comes, I’m ready.

I start paddling furiously to catch it.

I do!

I’m in accelerated motion.

First I propel my body upwards into an upward dog position. One wobbly leg goes up, then another wobbly leg goes up.

I’m DOING IT. I’m surfing!

As I soar through the ocean, I catch a glimpse of all the people sitting on the beach and I think about how I used to be one of them, just minutes before.

Now I’m out here. In the arena of life. Giving it my all.

I know deep in my soul I’ll NEVER go back.

If you’re someone who has spent your life on the sidelines, watching life pass you by, I understand. I understand more than you know.

There is always an opportunity for you to get back in the arena of life. If there’s a will, there’s a way.

Don’t beat yourself up. Just know that whenever you are ready, the door is open and LIFE will never stop waiting for you. ❤

Keep inspiring,

Nicole